Sobremesa’s love letter to Savannah

By Vanessa Lantos Daly (Spicy Melon)

I vividly remember when this restaurant opened: the romantic atmosphere, the wines flowing, deep blue hues, sensual pockets of light, small bites, and charcuterie.

Back then, Sobremesa, located at 2312 Abercorn Street, presented itself as a wine bar with luxurious bites, perfect for a date night or a friendly gathering.

In the past two years, with the involvement and co-ownership of locally well-known Jason Restivo, the restaurant has evolved and slowly added layers to the experience while still remaining an elevated local restaurant.

I’ve known Jason for many years, but upon meeting Ryan Ribeiro, the other co-owner, and having a conversation with him, I can see why Jason was happy to form a partnership. Ryan is delightful and the original creator of Sobremesa, which means “the time gathering at the table,” chosen as a nod to his own Portuguese descent.

Recently, Josh Miller became their newest chef de cuisine. I was very happy to learn this: I know Josh from his time as chef at Husk and his creative farm-to-table approach to food. Thoughtful and elevated techniques while respecting and celebrating local ingredients.

Jason is locally beloved because of his hospitality career history in this city and because of his previous restaurant, The Atlantic — now Ardsley Station. The Atlantic had a rich following, and when Jason became part of Sobremesa, there was a lot of anticipation surrounding the level of experiences that The Atlantic previously offered.

If I were to describe Jason, it would be a contagious smile, a magnetic personality, and an immeasurable curiosity for great wine and food. A level two sommelier, and chef at Sobremesa for the past year.

With the amazing addition of Josh to the team, Jason has decided to return to the dining room and guide his guests toward the level of experience his knowledge and education can bring. At a glance, the farm-to-table creativity shines through the menu, which is Josh’s specialty.

There was a signature nostalgic item brought over from The Atlantic: bacon-wrapped dates with bleu cheese dressing. An item so simple yet so decadent, perfectly balancing savory and sweet. Once I saw that appetizer, I knew Jason’s influence would be present throughout the menu and the Sobremesa experience.

Bacon-wrapped dates with warmed Asher blue cheese sauce and Billy’s Botanicals garlic chives

Within the past year, the restaurant went through a remodeling that visually opened up the space. They decided to retire the deep blues and paint the interiors white while redesigning the dining room. Jason shares, “I’ve been very fortunate to experience many dining rooms on both the West and East Coast. Many restaurants in San Francisco and New York understand that certain colors set a certain mood. The blue here before was great because it inspired guests to sit and enjoy a glass of wine and maybe a cheeseboard. It did its job perfectly. But for a more complete dining experience, I felt the atmosphere and colors needed to change and create that environment. We went with Benjamin Moore Navajo White, a creamy color which serves as a canvas for any artwork or plants on display.”

Thoughtful details left and right. Every element of the experience they wish to create for their guests is carefully orchestrated. From the quality of the experience, to the price of their offerings, to the environment where all this happens… He also shares thoughtfully, “It is difficult to constantly feel elevated and joyful in a darker room.”

It is interesting to have a level two sommelier as a chef, and also highly beneficial for imagining a complete dining experience. “I spent a great part of my life studying wine and terroirs,” Jason shares, “but nothing quite compares to learning how to shuck McIntosh oysters.”

I stand quietly in one corner of the kitchen while he shucks oysters with Chef Josh on the other side, and they happily tell me the stories that have brought them to this very moment at Sobremesa.

Jason shares part of his current vision: “I am currently planning to make that little lounge in the back a dedicated table for eight guests. There I will start conducting three intimate wine dinners a week. The wine dinner menu will stay the same for that week, and each night the experience is capped at eight guests. This allows guests the opportunity to experience the wine dinner of the week without limiting it to just one evening.”

This is amazing because it is a curated experience with different food and wine every single week. Having three opportunities to experience that week’s wine dinner allows many more locals to treat themselves to this experience.

Jason shares, “This coming season we are getting ready to bring on someone as talented as Josh. Someone who worked with him, and Josh speaks very highly of him. This opportunity will allow me to return to the front of the house and fully focus on hospitality again.”

Who is this new mystery chef? And what more amazing food and experiences at Sobremesa will come from this? Under wraps for the moment, but the slow and luxurious unveiling of what the Sobremesa experience is becoming is irresistible to watch…

Jason continues, “I have worked preparing food in this kitchen for over a year now. During that time, I’ve been very lucky to have A.J. being my heart, eyes, and ears on the floor.”

This interview happens while Jason shucks oysters and prepares their Yellowfin Tuna Tostada, which let me tell you right now is incredible: vibrant fresh yellowfin topped with a sinful coconut wasabi cream sauce that I could honestly enjoy by the gallon…

Yellowfin Tuna Tostada: Yuzu ponzu sauce, coconut wasabi, crispy corn tortilla, shichimi togarashi, scallions, and benne seeds

Aaron Smith, affectionately known as A.J., is their manager extraordinaire. I observe him checking on them in the kitchen during the interview while simultaneously overseeing the flow of the entire restaurant.

He shares, “I’ve been here for nearly a year and a half. I love the environment here. It is very family-oriented in the sense that we all check on each other. It is a very small staff, so we all put a lot of work and effort into making this amazing. I enjoy the great work-family atmosphere, and I think this translates into the experience we provide for our guests.”

Obviously, I ask him about his favorite plate on the menu. He shares, “My favorite is the bacon-wrapped dates. We get regulars who used to go to The Atlantic and it is a comfort item that they love. Also, the yellowfin ahi tuna tostada is amazing.” A.J. has such bubbly and wonderful energy and always brightens up any room he is in. The way Jason talks to him, I can see how appreciated he is.

Jason shares the intentionality behind Sobremesa:

“Everything here has been done considering the current market and the community. If we were in New York City, Los Angeles, or San Francisco, opening a wine bar would simply work because of the demand and density of those cities. Savannah embraces and appreciates wine bars, but Savannah loves to eat because later on they are going to drink.”

Chef Josh chimes in:

“We try to showcase and highlight seasonal ingredients. We also source our ingredients from local purveyors like Billy’s Botanicals. Most of these local farmers and purveyors are our family and friends, and many of them I have known and worked with for years. Local and seasonal ingredients are the name of the game, and we want to give our diners the best.”

Jason shares:

“When I first bought into Sobremesa two and a half years ago, after shutting The Atlantic and being in the desert for about three years, there was excitement for me to come bring some of those food experiences here. So I tried keeping it to small plates and wine, but I know how to grow a program by elevating the food, drink offerings, and overall experiences. People were excited for that aspect.”

They are still preparing amazing food while chatting with me, and I’m getting so hungry simply watching them artfully plate everything.

Jason shares, “Going from small plates to larger plates has given us the opportunity to host buyouts and events like bridal showers, birthdays, graduations, and work gatherings. This kitchen is able to produce a dinner for 40 guests. Everything has been possible only because of the hard work of all the amazing people that work here.”

Nearing the end of our conversation, tickets start trickling in and Josh and Jason get busy. I walk into the dining room and every table starts filling up with excited diners.

I sit at the bar and order a house white. This is one of the few places in town where the house wines are both affordable and great quality… very European in that regard. It makes sipping relaxed and easy. Three-to-five-dollar beers, eight-dollar glasses of house wine. Dive bar prices in an elegant setting.

A.J. takes over the dining room while the bar is handled solely by bartender Lakin Crawford. Despite being visibly busy, he smiles warmly at me and approaches me.

He crafts me their featured cocktail of the moment, “A Horse with No Name,” his personal creation. It is made with bourbon, Zucca rhubarb amaro, Bordiga aperitivo, German Riesling, fresh lime juice, orange bitters, and orange zest. Bright, balanced, and incredibly delicious. There are always a couple of featured house cocktails rotating through the menu.

At one point I count at least 20 guests, and there is only A.J., Lakin, Josh, and Jason working the entire restaurant. Food and drinks flow seamlessly. A.J. is seemingly everywhere at once, and Lakin maintains the same calm expression whether there are two guests or twelve sitting in front of him.

I watch in awe and mild stress, quietly observing from the corner of the bar, having dealt with this kind of volume myself while working in the industry. They make it look so easy. I get another glass of wine… I also remember Sobremesa in the past never having more than ten guests at a time, just a few patrons enjoying dessert or a cheeseboard with wine.

Lakin shares:

“When I first started working at Sobremesa, I saw it as a part-time job while finishing college. In the months since late January, it has become much more special than just a job. It is a place to learn and grow while having conversations with people about their everyday lives in Savannah or their lives abroad. It’s all threaded together through the love for a great meal and a nice glass of wine. I feel like part of a small family who all share a mutual respect for each other. Even on our different paths outside of Sobremesa, we all understand the concept: indulge in the experience, be present with people, and have a memorable conversation to carry you forward.”

I sip happily and try their Lobster Waffle with capers and shallot aioli… the sweetness from the waffle perfectly complements the generous topping of buttery lobster meat. It is so good it should probably be illegal. I quickly add it to my personal “bites to treat yourself shamelessly and decadently” list… Everyone has one of those lists, right?

Lobster Waffle: Caper and shallot aioli, chive oil

Jason finally shares:

“With all the new restaurants opening, we are in friendly competition. Savannah is growing, but a bit slower than everything opening around us. Given our location, we mainly cater to locals, and visitors find us online or by word of mouth. We need to have the mindset of being the best we can and offering our guests the best quality and experience for a reasonable price. That’s what we owe our guests for choosing us considering all the other options around us. I would be running a very different operation if we were located on Broughton Street.”

Chef Josh shares thoughtfully, “Our endgame is to be the best hospitality experience in Savannah all around, with the food, wine, service, and a place to celebrate any occasion.” And this is exactly the level of effort and talent he has brought to every restaurant where I’ve seen him work. It is wonderful that he is here now.

If I had to describe Sobremesa to a friend visiting this city, I would say: curated ingredients, luxurious decadence, friendly and down to earth while still elevated, and above all, deeply meaningful and creative.

I am adding Sobremesa high on my list of “Savannah places locals love” and “hidden gems in Savannah.”

If it’s been a couple of years since you last visited, or if you have never been before, come experience their glow-up. I can’t possibly recommend it enough.

I also can’t wait to see the next wine dinner menu.

Love always,

Vanessa

If you find value in this website, please consider contributing above or via Paypal to help cover the costs. You can also send contributions via Venmo @Savannah_Agenda. Your support, no matter how much you give, is appreciated and will help ensure the future viability of this community resource. You can also show your support by subscribing below and sharing Savannah Agenda with others via email or social media. Increasing readership is critical to the long-term success of this site.